Diamonds

In the current world of diamonds, much confusion surrounds the topic of lab diamonds and mined diamonds. I hope the information below will help shed some light on this topic so that you can be an informed consumer and make the choice that’s best for you personally. I work with both cultured (lab diamonds) and mined diamonds, often together in the same ring. Mined diamonds and cultured diamonds are the exact same substance, visually and chemically, and are therefore identical. No one can visually tell the difference between a diamond that was grown in a lab and a diamond that was grown in the earth. It takes a sophisticated microscope in order to look for a laser inscription marking whether the origin is lab or mined. I feel that both have a place in the world of jewelry. The most important part is to be educated so that you understand what they are and how they are each created.

I have come to recognize that culured diamonds are great not just because they are identical to mined diamonds, but because they can help us make a positive impact on our physical and social environments. I am a mother of two girls. I think often of the world they will inherit and my responsibility in it. If the world embraces lab grown diamonds, it can take the pressure off mined diamonds so that new diamond mines aren’t created. That means significantly less environmental destruction, less child labor and less social conflict in the places where diamonds are mined, which is an incredible win for humanity and the environment.

Diamonds are beautiful and have always had an important place in the world of jewelry. Now we can have them without harming the beautiful place we live in and depend on. The future will be better and brighter for all those who come after us. Along with diamond heirlooms, that's the world I'd like to leave for my kids.

x Kate Holstein

 

What is the difference between a mined diamond and a lab diamond?

Lab diamonds are created in a controlled laboratory environment using a technology that replicates the growing conditions of diamonds produced by the earth. There are two common methods for lab diamond creation and growing, High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition). CVD is a newer technology and the preferred process to produce a quality, genuine diamond. Kate only uses lab diamonds that are grown using the CVD process. Growing these diamonds requires a unique and innovative process that starts with a thin ‘seed’ diamond placed inside a chamber and subjected to high temperatures. Then, a carbon-rich gas mixture is introduced to the chamber. The gases are ionized to break down their molecular bonds, allowing the pure carbon to attach itself to the diamond seed. As the carbon builds up, it forms atomic bonds with the seed diamond, resulting in the growth of a new, larger diamond — identical to diamonds found in nature. Lab diamonds have the same visual and chemical properties as mined diamonds. They are an identical substance. The only difference is their origin.

How are lab diamonds certified?

Lab diamonds are certified in the exact same way as mined diamonds and by the same governing bodies, with IGI and GIA as the top certifying organizations. All of Kate’s diamonds come with an IGI certificate. Lab diamonds can be appraised and insured in the same way mined diamonds are.

Are lab diamonds and mined diamonds the same quality?

Just like mined diamonds, there are flaws and variation in quality with lab diamonds. The same “4c’s” (cut, color, clarity & carat), that are used to define the quality of mined diamonds is how lab diamonds are graded. Kate very carefully hand selects each diamond, using only the highest quality lab grown diamonds. They are all Type IIa diamonds, in D-G color grading and VS2+ clarity. A Type IIa diamond is considered to be the most chemically pure type of diamond, containing very little to no nitrogen or boron in their crystal structure, with exceptional optical transparency. In the mined diamond world, type IIa diamonds are incredibly rare, making up less than 2% of naturally occurring diamonds.

What is the value of a lab diamond?

There is much debate about the value of lab diamonds versus mined diamonds. The truth is that re-selling either is not easy nor profitable. The moment the diamond is purchased, lab or mined, it’s resale value drops significantly. There are very few diamonds in the world that are true “investment grade” diamonds. Even these are subject to great fluctuation of value in the diamond market. Because a lab diamond’s price point starts lower than a mined diamond, the investment risk is also lower. When lab diamonds were first introduced to the consumer market, they were priced higher than mined diamonds. Over time, as technology improved to enable a larger production of lab diamonds, their price has come down. There is also a current surplus of mined diamonds in the market, so their price has dropped significantly as well in the past year. At the end of the day, you should buy what you love and what you can afford. The sentimental value of a piece of jewelry will remain the same regardless of its origins.

Can you combine lab diamonds and mined diamonds in one ring?

Kate works exclusively with vintage estate settings, therefore many of these settings already contain mined diamonds from long ago. Combining the two types of diamonds, cultured and mined, works well because they are visually identical. When Kate reworks the rings, if she is adding a new center stone, she will typically use a lab diamond. For her, the reasons are simple: to be environmentally and socially conscious, and to be able to work with larger carat weights and the absolute highest quality diamonds, while keeping the price more accessible than mined diamonds. If a client requests a mined diamond, Kate will source an antique stone to maintain the environmental and ethical integrity she strives for in her pieces.